Amidst KL’s iconic skyline and modern urban sprawl, pockets of the city still retain old-world charms; a reminder of the city’s rich and multifaceted history. Few areas embody KL’s ‘Old Soul’ better than the city’s iconic Dataran Merdeka and its vicinity. Fairly compact and walkable, the area hosts a wealth of heritage buildings, many of them meticulously preserved, serving as a reminder of KL’s past.
Panggung Bandaraya, designed by the famous colonial architect Arthur Benison Hubback, sits next to the river at the junction between Jalan Raja and Jalan Tun Perak. Opened in 1904, the off-red brick building features a Moorish façade, with gently curving arches and Mughal balustrades. A sturdy portico leads into the interior of the theatre that was completely overhauled after it was razed by fire in the 90.
The KL City Library (currently under refurbishment), designed by Carcosa Seri Negara’s architect A.C. Norman, is an excellent example of the merging of different Anglo-Indian architectural elements in the city. Featuring an unexpected curving facade, the building, originally a printing office when it was first completed in 1899, currently houses a large library with more than 50,000 titles. Two large Moorish domes flank both ends of the building, giving it a stately, palatial look.
The Old KL Railway Station is another work by Hubback, who also designed the nearby Masjid Jamek. Opened during the height of KL’s tin-backed prosperity in 1910, the Indo-Saracenic structure recalls other magnificent, gothic British India-era buildings in the sub-continent, featuring several beautiful chatris or dome-capped pavilions, a common feature in Mughal palaces. Unlike its neighbours, the station’s façade is completely plastered and painted in light colours, giving the building a glow during sunset. While intercity rail services have shifted to the modern KL Sentral, KTM Komuter suburban rail still passes through the station.
The Grand Daddy of KL’s colonial heritage is the Sultan Abdul Samad Building, which stands opposite Dataran Merdeka. Opened in 1897 to house the offices of the British colonial administration, the opulent Moorish structure boasts a clock tower, copper-clad onion domes, imposing porch and curved colonnades. The building, which currently serves as a government office, received a significant refurbishment in 2012, with new colour-changing LED lights installed to enhance the building’s appearance at night.
Photo credit: Hotels.com
